How This Boundary-Pushing Chef Found Inspiration and Belonging in Asheville
Silver Iocovozzi, the chef behind Asheville’s first Filipinx restaurant, shares how their city shapes and inspires them.
The old harmonizes with the new in Asheville, North Carolina — creating a balance that simply works. It’s evident in the topography, where ancient mountains, woven by one of the oldest rivers on Earth, provide a tranquil backdrop for a bustling modern metropolis. It’s reflected in the architecture, where icons like the 19th-century Biltmore Estate stand alongside visionary concepts like the upcoming Mirror Hotel, an eco-friendly glamping resort. And it’s omnipresent in the arts, as Indigenous artists celebrate their ancestral heritage on murals that share streetscapes with contemporary galleries and arthouse film theaters.
It’s a dichotomy that exists in Asheville’s food scene, too. Scratch-made Southern staples and classic Carolina-style barbecue thrive side-by-side with boundary-pushing breweries, multifarious food halls, cutting-edge tasting menus, and hallowed Latinx institutions. That delicious dynamic helped make Asheville the number one food city in the U.S. last year, and take home two awards at the 2022 James Beard Foundation Awards.
Asheville’s momentum as a rapidly ascending, diverse dining destination is still going strong in 2023. Case in point: Neng Jr.’s— a semi-finalist for this year’s Best New Restaurant and the area’s first-ever Filipinx restaurant. It’s helmed by chef Silver Iocovozzi, a Filipinx-American on a mission to showcase their heritage and foster a space of inclusivity. Silver partnered with Food & Wine and Explore Asheville to chat about creative life in Asheville — and divulge their top picks for a weekend trip done right.
Diversity is the spice of
life in Asheville
Asheville’s food scene is a varied patchwork of flavors and foodways, from the age-old to the pioneering. It’s a multi-faceted melting pot where tradition is strengthened by innovation and inclusion — as evidenced by local chefs like Ashleigh Shanti, who champions Black Appalachian and soul food traditions at Good Hot Fish, and transplants like Peruvian chef Santiago Vargas, who brings intricate international dishes to Mikasa Criolla in the S&W Food Hall.
Then there’s Silver Iocovozzi, a native of eastern North Carolina who credits their move to Asheville in 2011 as the lightbulb moment that inspired a fervor for cooking. After attending culinary school and cooking stints in New York and Grand Cayman, they leaned on their heritage to forge a fresh path.
“I grew up traveling to the Philippines to visit my mom’s family, and the impact of those travels is integral in how I’ve experienced flavor,” Iocovozzi explains. Recognizing similarities in Filipino and Southern cuisines, Iocovozzi jumped at the chance to bring a new culinary intersection to Asheville with Neng Jr.’s.
“I wanted Neng Jr.’s to be a space that was out of the ordinary, but welcoming. It is truly a direct reflection of my personality.” The result is a vibrant and intimate space that feels like dining in someone’s art-filled home, where a poppy soundtrack and paintings of Iocovozzi’s mother compliment a heartfelt menu of contemporary Filipino fare inspired by family recipes and pastimes.
Says Iocovozzi: “I get to be in a community with some very talented chefs in tandem with hard-working farmers and dynamic musicians. Asheville is a place to hone in on your specialty, with some solid colleagues in your corner.”
A hub for creative inspiration and balance
Easy access to fresh air and inspiring nature helps foster Asheville’s creative spirit — empowering local chefs like Iocovozzi to pursue their dreams and open a restaurant so deeply personal.
“Spending time here feels like a rejuvenation for the creative spirit,” remarks Iocovozzi. “Asheville’s natural beauty helped me realize Neng Jr.’s. It allowed me to push the boundaries of my own limitations and make it happen.”
Nestled in the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains amidst blazing foliage and cascading waterfalls, the Asheville area boasts hundreds of hiking and biking trails to explore, like the nearby Appalachian Trail, the 14-mile Hickory Nut Gorge, and the soon-to-reopen Catawba Falls in the Pisgah National Forest. But even a simple sunset stroll can spark inspiration — perhaps for an innovative new dish, like keso ice cream (a Filipino dessert) topped with grape compote and sumac brittle.
“It’s the same sumac that can be found on hiking trails to beautiful sunsets,” Iocovozzi explains. “I came up with it because I was thinking about how much I love the sunset here, and how much that means to me — to complete another day and be beside whoever I'm with.”
As green as the Blue Ridge
Considering the wellspring of inspiration that Asheville’s stunning locale provides, it’s no surprise residents prioritize sustainability and eco-friendly living. For Ashevillains like Iocovozzi, who recharge in nature, that means being mindful on hikes to preserve trails and prevent overcrowding. When routes along the Blue Ridge Parkway get crowded, for instance, opt for something off-the-beaten path, like the Graybeard Trail in Black Mountain or the worthwhile vistas at Pinnacle Park.
That same sentiment applies to supporting local businesses — of which there are myriad. “Be intentional about what businesses you visit,” Iocovozzi advises. “Have a standpoint that encourages and supports the residents that upkeep this special place.” Stop by Ware, a zero-waste lifestyle store downtown, browse holistic home goods at Nest Organics, or sample naturally leavened breads and European-style pastries at OWL Bakery, which just opened a second location and emphasizes organic and local ingredients.
A commitment to sustainable growth, a tight-knit community of diverse creators, and a prevailing spirit of innovation and ingenuity help keep Asheville’s momentum on the up and up — and inspire tastemakers like Iocovozzi to keep following their dreams. “Asheville is a special place. It's a ‘big small town,’” they say. “Every now and then, it’s good to get away; coming home is a big sigh of relief when you start to see the Blue Ridge in sight.”
Asheville Must-Do’s:
Chef Silver Iocovozzi’s top picks for a visit to Asheville.
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