These 3 Chefs are Changing the Face of DC Cuisine

Trailblazing chefs have long been synonymous with Washington, DC. Toque-wearers like Michel Richard, Nora Pouillon, and José Andrés helped transform the nation's capital into a center of varied culinary excellence. Today, the real DC culinary buzz revolves around innovative chefs and restaurateurs who are raising the gastronomic bar in nearly every corner of the city.

To explore this exciting scene from the inside, we talked to three of DC’s most talked-about culinary innovators — Chef Danny Lledó of Xiquet, Chef Angel Barreto of Anju, and Chef Kevin Tien of Moon Rabbit. Specializing in three vastly different cuisines (Valencian, Korean, and Vietnamese) in three completely different neighborhoods (Glover Park, Dupont Circle, and The Wharf), these tastemakers (pun intended) offered their unique perspective on the DC food scene and “The DC Difference”—that special something that separates this city from the rest.

Born and raised in Takoma Park, MD, just a short drive from DC, Danny Lledó is one of the city’s homegrown culinary legends. His Michelin-starred restaurant Xiquet, located in DC’s Glover Park neighborhood, pays homage to his father’s Spanish heritage, bringing the flavors and traditions of Valencia to DC.

“Our aim is to use fresh and beautiful ingredients, simply but precisely prepared, in the hopes of creating a world-class dining experience — and a little escapism — for our guests,” explains Lledó. “I’m proud of our focus on high-quality and hard-to-find products, like the Red Prawn of Dénia.”

Lledó credits the evolution of the DC dining scene to those who have come to the area to plant roots in and around the city. “There’s been a growing creative class with a much stronger focus on food and drink, as well as the visual and performing arts,” he notes. “So many people here are smart, worldly, curious, and open-minded, and that’s reflected in the dining scene. There is a real appreciation here for a huge variety of food cultures, so it’s a wonderful city in which to showcase a particular gastronomy like Valencia’s.”

To truly experience the cultural breadth and culinary innovation happening in DC, Lledó recommends that visitors venture beyond the Mall, museums, and memorials and into the neighborhoods to “really experience a patchwork of cultures, communities, and creativity.” From food trucks to formal fine dining, the collection of eateries waiting to be discovered is unparalleled.

“Very few cities this size have such a concentration of talented chefs, all of whom are proud to represent DC and share our city with the world,” he enthuses.

For Lledó, “The DC Difference” is an extension of the city’s myriad offerings. “DC is an incredible place for business, education, the arts, tourism, professional sports, and especially culinary exploration. With so many world-class offerings in each of these categories, and in such a small, accessible area, DC truly stands alone.”

A James Beard Award-nominee and Food & Wine Best New Chef 2021 winner, Chef Angel Barreto first came to DC as a child, when his father moved from the army to a more permanent post at the White House. After initially contemplating a career in international relations, Barreto felt the kitchen was calling his name and quickly made his way from cook to sous chef to executive chef in renowned DC restaurants such as Vermillion and Wolfgang Puck’s The Source. In 2019, he helped open and became Executive Chef at the wildly popular Anju, a cozy, modern eatery offering a new take on classic Korean cuisine.

Looking back at how the DC food scene has changed over the past 10-plus years, Barreto is excited about the expansion he’s seen.

“Before, we were a steakhouse city; now, we have everything,” he reflects. “The DC food landscape truly represents the melting pot of the city, with everything from Lao and Ethiopian to Salvadoran and Soul Food.”

Half Puerto Rican, half Black, and a lifelong student of Korean cuisine (thanks in large part to his mother, who spent a number of years in the country and fell in love with the food), Barreto brings a unique perspective to the table. At Anju, he strives to educate diners about the food, exposing them to a world beyond Korean barbecue. He also wants guests to feel welcome and at ease.

“I always feel like Anju is someone’s home. We welcome guests in to relax and enjoy themselves,” he notes.

Having spent a good portion of his life in DC, Barreto is a great resource for tips on exploring the city. His number one rec? Take the Metro. It offers amazing access to the city’s many diverse neighborhoods and the incredible restaurants tucked away in their different corners. “It’s easy to use, so take advantage of it,” he advises. He also encourages visitors to check out DC staples like Ben’s Chili Bowl and Union Market.

Barreto views “The DC Difference” as the way the city melds “the culture of our nation with the culture of our city.” The capital city offers both a grand history and heritage, as well as a diverse collection of neighborhoods that many everyday people call home.

A Louisiana native with a master’s degree in Data Analytics, Chef Kevin Tien’s culinary journey is the quintessential DC transformation story. After arriving in the city in 2013 to work a nine-to-five desk job, Tien quickly fell in love with the vibrant local restaurant community and abandoned his cubicle for a spot in the kitchen.

“I worked everywhere, from the  Farmers Restaurant Group and Kaz Sushi to Oyamel by José Andrés, Momofuku by David Chang, and Pineapple and Pearls by Aaron Silverman,” he recounts.

In 2020, Tien decided it was time to forge his own path and opened Moon Rabbit in the InterContinental hotel, located at The Wharf. Combining the flavors of his Vietnamese heritage with his home state of Louisiana, “Moon Rabbit strives to be a space that is for everyone,” says Tien. “At lunch, we offer traditional Vietnamese dishes like pho, congee, and lemongrass grilled pork. Come for dinner and experience Viet Cajun flavors in dishes such as garlic miso crawfish and noodles or Middendorf’s fried catfish with coconut and spinach.”

Tien speaks passionately about the unique way DC’s diverse chefs and owners are bringing a truly personal touch to their cuisine.

“On the surface, a restaurant may be Indian or Korean, but the food and experience is so personal to the chef or owner that every restaurant in a particular category will stand out on its own,” he says. “Each space is a reflection of who they are, the history of their family, or how they are pushing the cuisine forward.”

Tien also appreciates the sense of belonging and pride that DC residents feel in their city, especially in their individual communities and neighborhoods. “The landscape of people who live here is so diverse, it has much more to show than the national news,” he explains. 

He also loves how supportive residents are. “The DC community is beyond amazing when it comes to supporting one another and doing fundraisers and events. People always show up in full force, whether it’s a festival on the National Mall or lining up in front of a Ukrainian bakery to help raise money.” 

Reflecting on “The DC Difference,” Tien says, “It’s just that! Different and diverse.” He points to himself as an example: “I am just one of many individuals with a story to share. When you visit DC, you can meet and experience so many more.”